6.19.2010

Freeze Frame

"Try to have an open mind when you get home"  This was my notorious text sent to my husband after I had torn down a wall {I was not supposed to} while he was at a meeting for work.  You see, it happens quite easily.  Tearing down walls.  You pull a little hear, pry a little there.  About half way through you discover that you can't stop because of the way the previous homeowner had constructed this monstrosity, and lookie there . . . the wall is gone.  Suffice it to say, Steve was not a happy camper when he came home.  After he called in his reinforcements in the form of Papa Dishman and discovered that framing a wall is really not that hard, he got over it.

Framing is easy if you have the right tools and someone with you who knows what they're doing.  Papa Dish had been a carpenter so he was our foreman on the job.  You need to buy the straightest 2 x 4's, which are really 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" {yes, you need to know this}, that you can find.  You also need a good saw.  We used the miter saw we borrowed from Carroll {thank you!} to cut down our lumber to the correct height, but you could also use a circular saw, a table saw, a hack saw, etc . . . 

If you are filling in a wall that has a ceiling already, building your frame on the ground first then tipping it up as you do in new construction, will not be possible.  If you are doing new construction, a basement wall, and/or a soffit, click here for very good instructions.    

Tip: Use a spacer block 14 1/2" long to place between your studs.  This will give you something to nail or screw into, it keeps your stud straight and level, and makes sure your studs are 16" on center.  Why 14 1/2"!?  Because if you want your studs 16" OC {on center}, you need to account for half of each stud width.  3/4" + 3/4" + 14 1/2" = 16"  Who said you wouldn't need algebra?

The 16 vs. 24 debate:  Older homes will have their studs 16" OC while some newer homes have them at 24" OC.  Why?  Well, in a nut shell, to save money.  Wider stud width equals fewer studs, which equals less money.  Personally I'm not so cool with the 24" idea.  My BFF did this in her basement and then when they tried to wall hang their new gigantic flat screen, only one stud was within reach of the mount.  Now they have to cut out the drywall on the backside (luckily the storage room) and retrofit their wall with a new stud and some blocking.  This is a lot of work.  They also work full time and have a toddler.  So, no, it isn't done yet.  

A compromise I've heard of is a 19 1/4" stud width.  This will save you one stud for every 8' - 0" wall that you have.  For me, the cost savings of $3 a stud does not justify going off standard construction methods.  But if you're that cheap, and if you're fine with the next homeowner never being able to find a stud and thinking you're crazy, go for it.  : )

"The Wall"
The new wall with a frame for the built-in shelving.

Mini-walls and a new floor for the shelving to sit on


1 comment:

  1. I don't get why anyone would cheap out and not put studs every 16. it's so not worth it. also, you forgot to mention that the "mini wall/new floor was completely drawn and built by you and your awesomeness...

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